On and about Bonsai


fredag 5 oktober 2012

Chinesse Ulmus and Zelkova Zerrata

In Sweden its common to find this kind of trees marketed as Zelkovas in differnet flower shops.
When I think about it, I have never seen a tree marketed as a Chinesse elm.

This is how a Chinesse elm could look like:
 This one i boughted at the yearly Swedish Bonsai Association from Leif Jensen at http://www.bonbonsai.se/


This one i boughted (as a Zelkova) 2 years ago in a flower shop.


This one boughted I as a Zelkova arround 3 years ago. It was intended to be grown in a broom style


This is how a Chinesse elm/ulmus parvifolia leeves looks like. Its shiny and not so pointy as a Zelkova.


And this is how the leeves of a Zelkova Zerrata could look like:
The leeves of the Zerrata are more pointy and not so shiny as the Ulmus.


And this is how a Zelkova Zerrata Bonsai could look like. This tree is shown at The Art of Bonsai homepage and it is property of Hans Vleugels from Belgium.

Even though they look very similar, there are differences between them. But it could be difficult to see them if you dont have anything else to compare with.
The Chinesse elm /Ulmus Parvifolia is often darker in the trunk than the Zelkova Zerrata.

But you can find almost anything marketed as anything else.
Please follow this link and you will find a Ficus Retusa marketed as a Ulmus Zelkova indoor plant, at Ebay!!!!

torsdag 4 oktober 2012

Substrate Test

This test wich I like to share with me, was performed by a member of the Swedish Bonsai Association, Henrik Björck.
Here follows his results:

Substrate Test

This test was performed in Sweden.

Following was tested:

- Gravel
- “Soil” (a mixture of bark, gravel and mainly leca 2-3mm)
- Cat litter (Brand: Eldorado. From: Hemköp) 
- Easy Care Substrate 1-4mm (Brand: Akvarietekniks. From: Hornbach)

Waste

First 2dl of each was cleared of particles less than 1mm and larger than 4,5mm.

 Gravel


 “Soil”


 Cat litter


 Easy Care Substrate

The above show the approx. amount of waste. The larger particles can always be used for extra drainage at the bottom of the pot while the dust must be thrown away.

Water absorption

1dl of medium was weight in a dry state. 1dl of water was added and left for 30s. Draining for 30s to be weight again. To get amount of absorption and water that got stuck between the particles. See pictures below:


LH: “Soil”. RH: Easy Care Substrate



LH: cat litter. RH: Gravel


Results

-1 dl Gravel dry 155g. Wet 167g. Water absorption 12g/1dl
-1 dl “Soil” dry 59g. Wet 76g. Water absorption 17g/1dl
-1 dl cat litter dry 55g. Wet 87g. Water absorption 32g/1dl
-1 dl Easy Care Substrate dry 67g. Wet 80g. Water absorption 13g/1dl

Water evaporation

Room temperature 21-22 grader (dry air)
g = water weight
 Gravel
- Start 12g
- 1h 8g
- 3h 8g Decrease in % 33
- Approx. 10h 4g
- 24h 2g Decrease in % 83
 ”Soil”
- Start 17g
- 1h 17g
- 3h  17g Decrease in % 0
- Approx. 10h 13g
- 24h 8g Decrease in % 53

Cat litter
- Start 32g
- 1h 32g
- 3h 31g Decrease in % 3
- Approx. 10h 26g
- 24h 21g Decrease in % 25
Easy Care Substrate
- Start 13g
- 1h 13g
- 3h  12g Decrease in % 8
- ca 10h 7g
- 24h 3g Decrease in % 77


Conclusion:

- Gravel, minimal absorption, good size (depending of gravel), minimal waste, cheap.

- ”Soil”, minimal absorption, slow drying, great variation of size and type.

- Cat litter, very good absorption, cheap, relatively a lot of waste, large size, pinkish colour.

- Easy Care Substrate, expensive, even and good size, average waste (only dust)

For myself i will for the future use cat litter ½ to 2/3 of the pot and finish of with a finer mix on top consisting of: Gravel, leca, bark and Easy care substrate for a pleasant and “natural” look.

More test to come:

In the coming month I will be testing the above against 3 different Japanese substrates. This time it will be allowed to soak for 1m and drain for 1m and tested after 1h, 3h and 24h. 

Feel free to copy and pass on this information.

Best regards, Henrik

Bonsai Cuttings Stockholm
email: henrik.bjorck@bonsaicuttingsstockholm.se

This one in swedish, soil substrat test

En av våra medlemmar, Henrik Björck har utfört en mycket bra test som jag här vill uppmärksamma.
Nedan följer uppgifterna.
Henrik kan nås på henrik.bjorck@bonsaicutttingsstockholm.se:

Följande testades, enligt bilderna nedan

-Grus (Gata, grustag)


-Jord (min egen blandning, bark, grus mest leca)



-Kattsand (Eldorado)



-Akvariesand (från Hornbach)



Först testade jag 2dl av varje, partiklar mindre än 1mm silades bort (med den klassiska pastasilen)
Partiklar större 4,5mm silades bort (med en bärsil)

Sedan tog jag 1 dl av varje tillsatte 1dl vatten. det fick dra åt sej i 30 sec, för att sen rinna av i 30s. Efteråt vägde jag materialet igen och fick då fram hur mycket vatten som hade absorberats eller fastnade mellan partiklarna.
Ska även testa igen med längre blötläggning 15m t ex, i framtiden.


Resultat:

-1 dl Grus torrt 155g Vått 167g Upptagning vätska 12g/1dl

-1 dl Jord torrt 59g Vått 76g Upptagning vätska 17g/1dl

-1 dl Kattsand torrt 55g Vått 87g Upptagning vätska 32g/1dl

-1 dl Akvariesand torrt 67g Vått 80g Upptagning vätska 13g/1dl


För och nackdelar:

-Grus, minimal uppsugning, bra kornstorlek, minimalt med restprodukter.

-Jord, minimal uppsugning, stor variation av storlekar och material.

-Kattsand, mycket bra uppsugning, billigt, relativt mycket spill, stora partiklar

-Akvariesand, dyrt, jämn och bra partikel storlek, medel spill

Slutsats (för min egen del)
Använda kattsand i 1/2 krukan eller mer. Resterande en blandning av min befintliga jord med inslag av akvariesand-grus för att få mer fukt uppe i krukan och en behaglig yta.

Har även testat avdunstningen 1t efter 3t efter men ingen större effekt i rumstemperatur i plastbunke.

( 1 dygn senare )
Nu är testet klart. Min egna blandning fallerar helt klart om man inte driver upp pil.
Med tanke på att det nu ute är ca 10 grader och mycket fuktigt lär det väl aldrig torka upp med min jord.

Kattsanden står ut långa väger när det gäller att hålla vatten, nästa test måste bli på japansk substrat, Akadama, Kanuma, Kiryu och kanske Keto.


Avdunstning (rumstemperatur ca 21-22 grader):
g = vikt vatten

Grus
- Start 12g
- 1t 8g
- 3t 8g Minskning i % 33
- ca 10t 4g
- 24t 2g Minskning i % 83

Jord (min egen blandning, bark, grus mest leca)
- Start 17g
- 1t 17g
- 3t 17g Minskning i % 0
- ca 10t 13g
- 24t 8g Minskning i % 53


Kattsand (Eldorado)
- Start 32g
- 1t 32g
- 3t 31g Minskning i % 3
- ca 10t 26g
- 24t 21g Minskning i % 25


 Akvariesand (från hornbach)
- Start 13g
- 1t 13g
- 3t 12g Minskning i % 8
- ca 10t 7g
- 24t 3g Minskning i % 77

söndag 30 september 2012

New design on a Juniperus communis


This is a new design for my juniperus communis, wich I got as a little sapling from the forest 3 years ago.





It was intented to be a cascade but the design was created by Bonsai Artist John Armitage.
Photographer and photoshoper of the second picture is Anita Toropainen.


söndag 9 september 2012

New Bonsai place




A beach, a picea and a common field acer, in the black pot.


A ficus, 2 oaks and a  populus tremula in the round pot



A larix cascade, another oak and 2 gooseberries in the ceramic pots.

A forest of juniperus communis.


A little ulmus parviflora


A forest of sequioas (the one in the middle is dead )


A Scott Pinus


A juniperus blaauw, a picea abies, a Ulmus praviflora in the red pot.


Another field juniperus communis


I will try to make a cascade of this scott pinus.


The larix cascade and the gooseberries again.

All trees are in training, for 2 to 5 years.

måndag 27 augusti 2012

Årsmöte


Bonsaiutställning och Årsmöte Den 8-9 September på Östasiatiska Museet.

Vi kommer att ha vårt årsmöte och en bonsaiutställning på Östasiatiska museet i den 8-9 september.
Östasiasiatiska museet ligger på Tyghusplan, Skeppsholmen i Stockholm.
Uställningen är öppen 11-17 på den 8:e september samt 11-16 den 9:e september
I samband med utställningen på Östasiatiska museet i September ges ett grundläggande föredrag om bonsai (ca 30 min) för dig som är nyfiken på denna hobby.
Tid och plats för detta är:
Lördagen den 8 september kl. 11.30 samt söndagen den 9 september kl. 11.30 i lilla hörsalen.
Lördagen den 8:e September kl 12- 17  kommer vi att ha en publik workshop då medlemmar arbetar på sina träd tillsammans med Johm Armitage.
Söndagen den 9:e September mellan kl 12-14 kommer John Armitage att kommentera de utställda träden  (OBS detta sker på engelska).
Vill du veta mer detaljer så klicka på “årsmöte” här nedan under “Var och Vad”
Ni är varmt välkomna!
Svenska Bonsaisällskapet

lördag 2 juni 2012

Late update

Have a new sunnier place for my trees.

Have had a lot of things and havent taken any pics but all the poted trees where repotted. All of them had plenty of healthy roots, wich means that Walter Palls recommendation of an agresive feeding method with for example chicken manure or other nitrates and a lot of water works perfectly.

More pics will come later, when the weather gets better (its raining right now :)



måndag 16 januari 2012

During this winter, some inspiration.

Growing



One of the Kings Deers



Storybook Deers



An old treeman chating with friends in the forest



A very old Oak



A very old Oak forest



Bended by time



Another Oak


måndag 2 januari 2012

What is Bonsai?



There are three points I would like to address with this question:

1 - What does bonsai means? Bonsai is Japanese and means tree in a pot.

2 - What kind of species are Bonsai? All plants with woody stems and branches can be in one way or another after a time turned into Bonsai.

3 - What does a bonsai tree look like? Well ..... The answer to this question needs a little further explanation with a little background.

Bonsai art started from the beginning in China under the name of Penjing. The art was taken up by the Japanese, who developed it and created more guidelines in order to refine this art.
It is only in the middle of the 1900s as the art itself took root in the West and seriously took off in the western hemisphere

What does a bonsai tree look like? Bonsai is a way to copy nature's creation, to design a plant for some aesthetic guidelines. The Chinese approach to the art is different in some ways from the Japanese point of view. I would not go into all the different rules for how a bonsai should look like, there are several books and Internet sites that are already dealing with this topic.

I would rather take up a new idea, the new conception of what a bonsai should look like.
For me bonsai is a way of trying to mimic nature's own creation. Nature shapes the trees different. There is not a single tree in the forest or park, which looks the same. Straight trunk, thick, thin, short, long, curved, crooked, double, smooth, bark, prickly, soft, hard, green, brown, etc., etc..
Some have few branches, others look like bushes, etc., etc..

What does a bonsai tree look like? As a tree in nature, I answer. But trying to get a tree to look like all the above forms is a bit difficult. Examine instead what kind of material you have in front of you and try to see the possibilities in it, try to see the tree in it, nature's own suggestions.

I'm not saying the Japanese or Chinese form of this art is wrong. But those are not the only guidelines you should follow. I mean, as long as you are honest to nature's creation, and yourself, you can create the most beautiful bonsai trees.

What is a bonsai tree look like? Here is a suggestion from nature itself:)